PFASs in Cosmetics: Risks and Regulations

Over the last few years, the use of PFASs in cosmetics has been creating a great deal of concern among consumers, regulators, manufacturers and scientists. In this article we will explain what PFASs are, what they are being used for, why their name is in the crosshairs of so many bodies and what the future looks like for these highly contested compounds. PFASs (perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a group of chemicals used in a multitude of everyday consumer products, such as food packaging, kitchenware, textiles or cosmetics. The main characteristic is their hydrophobic properties, offering resistance to grease, water and heat. Their use in most cases is precisely because of their ‘speciality’ in repelling water. They are often used in the non-stick coating of frying pans to provide a smooth and shiny finish, as well as in creams and cosmetics for their spreadability.

PFASs in Cosmetics: Uses and Potential Hazards

In cosmetics, PFASs are intentionally added to improve water resistance and increase the durability of products. They are used for example in foundations, long-lasting lipsticks, mascaras and nail polishes. The addition of PFAS in cosmetics raises serious concerns due to potential health risks. Recent studies, such as that of the American Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) have associated prolonged exposure to PFASs with side effects such as:

• Alterations in cholesterol levels
• Increased risk of certain types of cancer (kidney and testicular)
• Decrease in birth weight for pregnant women
• Reduced immune response in children

Although the literature is not extensive on the exact risks of the use of these products, there is a consensus among the scientific community that the cumulative effects of PFASs represent certain health hazards. This has led regulatory authorities to take certain restrictive measures.

Emerging regulations on the use of PFAS in cosmetics

Growing concern over the use of PFASs has prompted several regions and countries to establish new regulations limiting their use in cosmetics.

• European Union: In Europe, countries such as Denmark, Norway and Sweden have led initiatives to limit the use of PFAS in cosmetics.
• United States: Although there is no strict federal regulation of PFASs in cosmetics, states such as California, Maine and New York have begun to enforce laws requiring notification of products containing these compounds, including considering banning their use in cosmetics between 2025 and 2023. In addition, the new Cosmetic Regulation Act of 2022 has expanded the FDA’s power to investigate and assess the risks of PFASs in these products.
• Asia-Oceania: Countries such as Japan, South Korea and Australia have also started to implement specific regulations for PFASs in cosmetics.

Challenges for the cosmetics industry

In the face of these regulations, cosmetics companies are challenged to remove PFASs from their formulations without compromising the quality of their products. This is not a straightforward process, as these components are often not clearly indicated in ingredient safety data sheets. Manufacturers should be proactive in assessing the inclusion of these ingredients in the production chain by showing interest or conducting simple audits to be 100% aware of their own product. Furthermore, compliance with these regulations is not only essential to avoid legal sanctions, but also to maintain the confidence of consumers, who are increasingly demanding ‘chemical-free’ products with a strong emphasis on sustainability and natural ingredients. PFASs in cosmetics represent an issue of growing concern due to their presence in the environment and their effects on human health. With regulations in several countries, companies must take proactive steps to comply with new legislation, or anticipate regulatory changes to come. As scientific research on the risks of PFASs advances and regulations strengthen, the cosmetics sector is likely to undergo a significant transformation in the coming years.

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